Force Multipliers: The Dakota Alert Motion Detector for Patrols and Rural Security
I was talking not that long ago around a campfire with two well seasoned former special operations officers. The chilly January air was juxtaposed to the heat that only a wood blaze can impart- it warms a part of your soul as well as the body. Between a mason jar of fine apple pie and the good company we shared, we reflected on a great many topics as warriors tend to do. As jovial as the mood was, we drifted into talking about how we’d defend the very area we were occupying. Basically it boils down to this- any area you plan to occupy overnight or longer, be it a campsite, a farm, or a compound, becomes a Patrol Base. Not a Patrol Base in the contemporary Iraq / Afghanistan sense, which is a small fort, but rather the traditional sense of the term. A Patrol Base is any place your group plans to occupy- and while on a patrol you only remain there for up to 24 hours, there’s requirements that everyone on the team needs to know and understand, namely that it’s easy to defend, not placing it on natural lines of drift, and competently secured by setting up observation posts to defend it.
In Afghanistan something we experimented with for hide site security was infrared motion detectors that would transmit a signal to our MBITR handheld. Once we would secure the site the Senior Scout Observer (SSO) and another team member would place the detectors along any trails that might lead to our position, giving us an early warning without alerting anyone to our presence. Not long after I returned from that tour I found out there was a civilian equivalent- the Dakota Alert, which does the same thing while using the license-free VHF MURS channels. I’ve been using a few of them for a little over seven years now, and they’re pretty good at what they do. With a few upgrades they make a very good force multiplier for a small unit patrol in the same ways those other motion detectors did for us when our lives depended on it.
The third principle of patrolling is security. A patrol, whether its a two man element or a company level operation, must always maintain 360 degrees of security. Its never as easy as it sounds. That starts with being awake and alert when pulling security- 50% of your force should be awake while at the halt in a patrol base. It’s a tough thing to do when you’ve moved most of the night through rough terrain and the Z monster comes creeping. Its human error and we’ve all done it- you get comfy, you get warm at the halt, and you fall asleep. Extending this to a retreat setting, every security position should have a buddy team manning it with a roving guard to make sure everyone stays awake especially in those wee hours of the morning. It’s a basic principle that we’ve been using for a LONG time- because as everyone knows, dawn is when the French and Indians attack. For that reason we use force multipliers, or devices that overcome the natural human error to give us that edge over the adversary.
Where do we put our security positions? Leaders in the Army are taught a simple acronym to analyze your operating terrain- OCOKA. It stands for Observation and Fields of Fire (where you can see, what you can shoot), Cover and Concealment (both you and your potential enemy), Obstacles Affecting Movement, Key Terrain Features, and finally, Avenues of Approach. Those avenues of approach- where the adversary is most likely to come from- is where we place our security. Humans, like animals, usually follow the beaten path. These are called natural lines of drift. Trails, roads, rivers…anywhere people are likely to travel. When you’re setting up security on your site it is those natural lines of drift that should get the most attention. In the diagram those boxes with the triangles are observation points (OP), but in a retreat those would also be where the area denial weapons would be emplaced.
Those OPs must also have communications with the leader’s element. You can do this by radio, but if you’re building up a retreat, it’s better to hard wire field phones into those security positions. They can’t be monitored. But since we’ve identified the natural human error- falling asleep or simply not able to pay attention- it’s a good idea to have as many early warning devices out as possible. There’s a lot of ways to do this- trip wire flares, smoke, noise makers, etc. Those are fine but they each alert the enemy to your presence. It may very well be that they don’t know you’re there, but once those devices are set off, you’ve been made. This is where that Dakota Alert shines. Most folks use these as driveway alarms and with a few simple modifications, they can make excellent force multipliers for a small unit.
The nice thing about them is that like the old motion detectors we were using in Afghanistan, they are a passive security measure- meaning they make no indication of their presence when tripped other than sending a signal via radio. These are the same. They are set to one of the five MURS channels to relay their signal, sending out a message of ALERT ZONE 1-5 based on which channel you’ve set it to. In other words, if it’s set to channel 1 (151.820 mHz) it will state ALERT ZONE ONE when tripped. An easy way to plan this out is to emplace it for OP 1, and then have OP 1 have a radio set to 151.82mHz (MURS 1) to monitor it. This will provide the OP with an early warning if the detector is tripped, along with the leader’s element. Speaking of, the Leader or roving guard should have a radio programmed to scan only the MURS channels when pulling security- that way even if the OP falls asleep, the alert message will get to someone.
There’s a few things I do to the stock Dakota Alert motion detector before I carry them. First I paint them an actual camouflage pattern other than the plain and shiny olive, which blends in with exactly nothing. I use Krylon, because its cheap, effective, and well, because it’s me and I know what the hell I’m doing. I Kyrlon everything I actually take on patrol as its non-reflective and if it gets scratched up it only looks better. We camouflage things from light colors to dark and buckskin brown blends in the best- so desert tan and darker brown does quite well. The next thing I do is remove the awful stock antenna and replace it with a purpose built wire antenna that disappears into its background. There’s two reasons for this- the first is to make it transmit more efficiently and the second is to further camouflage it. When emplacing it, it needs to be put at ground level. The infrared sensor makes a small light- and when on patrol people pay close attention to what’s at eye-level, especially with night operating devices (NODs, what civis call night vision) so it’s outside the field of view. As with everything else, place some natural debris around it further masking the outline and you’re good to go.
No matter if we’re gonna be there for a few hours or a few days, having an early warning system that interfaces with our radios is a huge advantage for security. I carry one in my ruck for a recce mission and for a static site security I consider them a must. Anything we can use that overcomes the natural human error or enables us to multitask is an asset, especially when you’ve got folks with limited training coming into the fold. It’ll make a difference- it did for us in combat, and can for you too.
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Great article NCScout!
I have looked at the Dakota Murs Alert Transmitter on several occasions to help with approach security to the redoubt. I never pulled the trigger on one due to range concerns and they are not cheap. Your article got me interested again and of course a few questions.
1) I assume you can buy just the transmitter and then monitor the transmitter with a previously purchased HT programed to the
appropriate frequency. You do not have to buy Dakota’s receiver. Correct?
2) Like any 2-meter signal; TX power, terrain, antenna height, and positioning plays a roll in distance. With a more robust home
brew antenna, (Brilliant idea by the way) how far have you experienced the TX signal from the Dakota transmitter?
3) When you have a free minute, would you share the Dakota Alert Transmitter model you use. There are several in their line-up.
This article comes at a perfect time. Additional 24/7 security is becoming a must.
1. That’s correct- no need for a dedicated receiver. Any radio that can receive MURS 1-5 will receive the transmitter.
2. Mine has only been needed at most for around 1/2 mile. You could probably wire one up for 18650 batteries, which would increase the output wattage to the full 2w. With a good antenna it’d probably do quite a bit better, maybe a mile or so.
3. I’m using the Dakota Alert MAT.
Using a copper pipe slim jim at ground level on three of them, they were reliable at 6 miles. Put a moxon on one, or better yet, a 5 element yagi, and use a 12 volt source to boost the transmitter output, tweak the dash pot, and the combination should be surprising. I prefer to use them in pairs, or better yet, as a set of three to roughly gauge speed, direction of travel, and approximate number of vehicles. The third is needed redundancy, making the set more reliable. Will be attempting to increase the range to find the extreme end, and attempt to do mods as described at a web site called Mat’s Mods. He shares how to rig up multiple trip wires, and a relay. The trip wires should greatly improve the utility and reliability, and reduce the need for multiple units. I believe a the old flash bulbs can be set without a relay, and deny NV. These are underappreciated. They do not eat, or sleep, are passive and can give one valuable time to respond. Thanks NC for all you do.
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Thanks for the info, I’ve thought about motion sensors for our property several times. Something that transmit on MURS is cool, I never knew something like that was out there. The reviews on Amazon are kind of meh, but they look solid and if you have been using them with good effect then I will add them to the maybe list.
A lot of people expect a lot more than what they end up with. If you’re deploying them in a permanent role, then expect some issues. If you’re using them as I suggest, they’re more than fine. Add in the fact that most folks have zero understanding of how radio equipment actually works, and yeah, you’ll get less that ideal responses.
Their documentation is pretty bereft of technical specs. Do you have any insight or experience as to temperature limits, especially on the low end?
Thanks for the article – these are nice things to consider.
It doesn’t get THAT cold here, so I dunno. Down into the 20s they work fine. Your biggest worry is that it’ll kill the AA cells. If all you’re doing is deploying them temporarily, they’re fine.
Are there any motion sensors with a radio alert you would recommend for permanent deployment?
You can still use these, just make sure you put RTV sealant on them. They have a rubber gasket from the factory, but RTV around the antenna connections and seams will fully waterproof it.
I did a little research on these and other units due to article,according to the Dakota folks the unit will work to -30(the company is located in the Dakotas and gets cold there!)so feel would work New England pretty well and most other cold regions.
Go to Mats Mods. https://modernsurvivalonline.com/mat-mods-enhancements-for-the-dakota-alert-murs-alert-transmitter/ Increase the number of batteries for 6 to 8, go with Lithium, or an external 12vdc SLA, lawn tractor, or even a weak automotive battery holding 12.1+ volts.
What kind of wire antenna did you make?
I took a length of coax cable, crimped a BNC connector, stripped it to the bare wire, attached a ring terminal on the end, melted on a few runs of shrink tubing for coating and wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape.
We used a similar setup years ago with Radio Slack’s IR door announcers when camping at Padre Island National Seashore. Of course it was an audible signal and could be drowned out by the surf if placed farther than say ten yards. Problem was the wildlife (coons) come into camps to rob coolers, fish guts, etc. So they almost always alerted at least once a night. At least we had a chance of reacting faster to some sh!thead getting the bulge on us while sleeping.
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I’ve operated a Dakota Alert system in NH to monitor a long driveway since Nov 2010. Distance is 900’ through heavy woods with elevation. I’ve not modified the MAT in any way other than to silicone grease the O ring. The batteries last about 6 to 9 months depending on how cold the winter is and it will operate in extreme cold. I recommend this product.
Thanks for the article and ideas. I’ll make one of your modified antennas and see if I can get more distance out of MAT. I recently purchased some Baofeng radios like the model you picture for the MURS functionality. What antenna are you using with it?
Thanks for reading! I made the antenna for it.
We have the Dakota MURS Alerts scattered around our property, with two on the long driveway to eliminate false alarms from deer and other random animals. It’s human nature to ignore “Alert Zone 1” after several false alarms, but when you hear “Alert Zone 2” also you know for certain someone is on their way. All the sensors are camo painted, and those attached to trees are on boards screwed to the backs of the trees.
Dakota Alert has made some changes to their system in the past few years. One is the black rubber coated antenna replacing the shiny metal one. Also, they’ve changed to a female voice. If, like us, you have a few old style sensors with the male voice, you can put out up to 10 sensors.
Being a homestead, we use the Dakota Alert base station, and when without power use our small solar panel w/battery & inverter to keep the base station on line. If you can get to our door without us expecting you, you came by parachute.
Two questions:
1) How fast will the Dakota Alert trigger? For example, would it trigger on a vehicle going by on a road at 50+ MPH?
2) Any suggestions on a more hidden way to detect vehicles going by on a county (unpaved) road? I’d like to put something under a bridge or under a culvert so it’s less visible. The culverts on the road in question are a mix of metal tubes and concrete. The bridge is concrete. So, either way, lots of metal plus a foot or more of dirt over the culverts. I’m guessing the metal would prevent any sort of magnetic sensor from working but I haven’t tried it. Also, anything I put in a metal-tube culvert will need to be water proof as they get full of water during a big rain.
Great article!
Thanks!
-Foxtrot-11
It’s an instant trigger. It won’t work in a culvert, and I can’t think of anything that will offhand.
Thanks! I knew the Dakota wouldn’t work in a culvert or under a bridge. I was thinking of the magnetic ones that you bury in your driveway to detect when somebody pulls in — the “cheap” alternative to Dakota equipment. My in-laws have one of those. But, I’m betting the rebar in the concrete or the steel culverts would prevent that from working as well. Now I’m wondering if an accelerometer would be sensitive enough to detect the vibrations of a vehicle driving over.
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