The Chainsaw, by American Yeoman
The fastest way (Other than buying it!) to put a pile of wood in your yard is with a good chainsaw. Technically, the chainsaw has been around for a few hundred years. In practical terms it has only really been an effective one-man tool since the end of World War II. As with many of the things we take for granted today the advances in materials and manufacturing techniques learned during the war created a useful tool that mechanized what had previously been back breaking labor.
I have been around saws and wood cutting my whole life and heated with wood since I was a child on a Midwest farm. Let me say right now that I am not a “Saw Geek”. It has become rather popular in the last few years to collect and restore chainsaws, there are a few forums and several YouTube Channels devoted to it. It is a fun and generally harmless hobby–but that is EXACTLY how I see it, a hobby. My interest in chainsaws lies in their ability to safely and efficiently reduce trees to firewood. I have no dog in the “Ford, Chevy, Dodge” fights nor in the Old is better than New chatter. Saws are a tool to accomplish a specific end state.
More important than Brand, in my opinion, is the Grade of saw you decide to purchase. Saws generally are broken down into “Homeowner, “Farmer/Rancher” and “Professional” grades. Homeowner saws are the kind that you will find at big box stores. Typically, they are going to be under $250 in cost when new with a 14-18” bar and a 30-40 CC motor. These saws are meant to be used infrequently- to cut down a tree in the way of building a new deck, cleaning up after a storm, that sort of thing. The “Farmer/Rancher” saws are going to be in the 50-60 cc range with 18-24” bars. They are generally heavier saws built for semi regular use. They can be found in farm and ranch stores, a few of the big box retailers and at power equipment dealers, cost is typically $450-650. Professional grade saws can come with most any size bar or motor, you will find them either online or at a power equipment dealer. What distinguishes these saws from the others is the quality of materials used in their manufacture and some design features. These are saws meant to be used every day- by an arborist, fire wood seller or lumberjack. Cost depends on the size but for a 50-60 CC saw will usually start around $500 and run as much as $800 or more.
For many years I was able to get by with a single, 16” “homeowner” saw. That saw was under powered and it could be difficult to start and keep running. It taught me a lot! Chainsaws are complex machines in some ways- think of it like this- how many engines do you know that will run perfectly from idle to full out in ANY orientation? Which brings up a good idea- having more than one chainsaw. Few things are more frustrating than getting all your stuff together, traveling to a cutting site and then having an issue with a saw and not being able to cut. It happens. Just like with firearms, redundancy is good and the weight, power, bar length, of different saws makes them more suited to specific tasks anyway.
If I had to have only one saw, it would be a professional grade 50-60 cc model with a 20” bar. It’s really a compromise saw- larger than I would like for limbing but reasonably sized for most felling and bucking duties. With two saws, I would add a Farmer/Rancher grade saw in the 30-40 cc range with a 16” bar. Such a saw is easy to use for any overhead cutting, limbing, felling small trees and bucking most branches. Consider also, this second saw can be run much more easily by members of the household other than the Alpha Male- homesteading is a family affair after all. You can of course add duplicate saws and a larger 70-90 CC saw for big timber work but those two will get done 90% or more of what a homesteader needs.
These two saws would cost $1,000 if bought new. That’s a good chunk of money of course but the economics of it can still be very favorable. First, this is a long-term investment. For a homesteader cutting wood to heat their home in most areas, 4-5 cords of wood will get them through the year. Those same 4 cords of wood, around here anyway, will cost you … $1,000. A few gallons of fuel, a couple of weekends with those saws and you can produce those 4-5 cords a year for decades. What would it cost over that same time to heat with electricity, propane or natural gas? Further, those saws not only provide fire wood but will clear storm debris or aid in demolition projects as well.
Second, as with most things, you can always buy used saws. There are some incredible bargains to be had if you know where to look and educate yourself. Good saws will last a long time if properly cared for- even when subjected to abuse in most cases. Three of the saws in the above photo were bought used at pawn shops, two of them cost me less than $50 apiece. The big Stihl 461 in the background, normally a $1,000 saw, cost me $300.
Lastly, as self-reliant people we need to take back as much control of the important systems in our lives as we can. Do you honestly think energy is going to get less expensive, or your dollars’ worth more anytime soon? Will the grid and other energy delivery systems be more reliable? Do you want someone else deciding how warm your home should be or whether or not you should be living in a place outside of public infrastructure?
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Every home should have a saw and a person that knows how to sharpen it. Skip the big box brands as they are mostly trash and get a professional grade thats double whatever HD is asking. And if you want to be cool like Jason ALWAYS run fuel stabilizer(seafoam) in your mix. Cheap is good if you can wrench on it but you dont know how the saw was loved before….new is new.
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These new electric chainsaws are incredible.
I wouldn’t invest too much in one, but if you see a good deal on one and you already have a bunch of the same batteries, I think you would appreciate the lack of noise, the high torque power, and how easy they are to just grab and go.
I was SHOCKED with how amazing the electric chainsaws are. Most can also take an electrical cord.
The “Friday the 13th” movies would have been a lot scarier if a stealth ninja Jason was running around with an electric chainsaw.
I used one of the electrics a little trimming the tops of the poles on a barn that was being built, those things are especially awesome when you’re 15′ up on a ladder because they’re so light.
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The 461 is an excellent choice for a main saw. it was the first saw I bought new, and I second what you said about professional saws holding up- the one I have has been thrown 10-15′ in the air and was still running when I picked it back up (it got caught in the but of a falling tree due to me making a mistake) it has had a 22″ poplar log fall on it, and it got run over by the front wheel of a tractor, and it still runs like a raped ape, and starts within the fist few pulls, always.
The bigger CC saws have their place but really only shine in BIG logs. I don’t use my Stihl 660 much because it is heavy and won’t do much that the 461 won’t do. I like to run full chisel tooth chains on all of my saws too.
One other thing- if you’re using them a lot, you can buy smaller professional saws, such as the Stihl 026, in good used condition for a few hundred dollars easily, and they’ll usually outlast the farm and ranch saws. And if you’re going to run the saws very much extra chains, GOOD files (including a flat file to take down the drag as the chain wears) and maybe a chain sharpening machine are wise investments too.
Great advice in the article. For homesteaders A small to mid size professional saw is a much better investment than a cheap homeowner saw. A 20 inch bar will handle the vast majority of jobs outside serious logging. It’s perfect for fire wood felling and limbing.
We only have one cutting saw. It’s a Stihl because that’s what’s sold locally and has parts available. Repair parts availability should drive your purchase decision. I paid about $500 for the saw a few years ago. We also have a Stihl pole saw for pruning but that’s a specialty tool most homesteaders won’t use unless they have an orchard or trees near the house.
As other have said, you need some other items to keep it running well:
– a bar cover to protect the chain when transporting the saw. Bouncing against truck beds is hard on your well sharpened chain.
– a file set for your chain pitch. Get a proper handle for both the round and flat file and a gauge to measure the depth of the clearing links
– spare chains are handy for long days of felling and bucking. Anti-kickback profile chains are good for new operators. Experienced operators know the value of skip tooth and chisel chains, and the aggravation that comes with them when cutting in dusty environments.
– a couple combination tools. They are invaluable for setting chain tension or changing spark plugs. They also go missing when dropped in a pile of leaves while felling.
– Fuel mix and bar oil. Don’t be cheap about these. Quality fuel additives make all the difference.
– A dedicated and clearly marked mixed fuel can. 2 gallons is about the right size for us. Buy fuel mix for the size of your gas can so you can prevent errors. Use ethanol free gas mixed with 2 cycle oil for small engines. Ethanol free gas is easier on the 2 cycle engines and is less likely to draw water from the air. Ethanol mixes with water, just like bourbon. Neither belong in chain saws.
– felling wedges. Have a few large and small. They’re cheap and make life easier.
– a log jack for bucking. Saves your back and keeps your chain out of the dirt. Well worth the small price paid for this little lever to lift the wood.
– safety equipment. As a minimum safety glasses, and hearing protection. Work gloves, saw chaps, and a helmet with face screen are strongly recommended especially if you don’t run a saw often.
– a way to secure your load when hauling from the wood lot to the stacking location. Ratchet straps are great and cheap enough. Get the 2 inch wide straps and you can use them to secure other equipment. Skip the cheap 1 inch straps; they’re almost worthless for real work.
It’s helpful to have a spare spark plug and air filter when you go into the woods. Not essential, but well worth the small cost.
The above will serve a homesteader quite well for many years. As with working guns and optics, you get what you pay for in saws. Don’t be cheap with things your safety depends on.
I had two saws, My new Stihl was stolen out my truck Friday night after thanksgiving, Grrr. lol what else ya gonna do.
gonna look into getting a used one now.
If you’re out knocking down standing-dead trees, there’s not much that beats a windshield-washer jug of mix-gas and a gallon of bar-oil tied together with a hockey-skate lace about 18″ long. Those jugs are made of heavier plastic that lasts a long time.
Throw it over a shoulder when you move to the next tree, and hang it on a branch when limbing and blocking so it’s out of the way.
As stated above, only run non-ethanol gas unless you’re a pro going through at least 5 gallons a week, every week, unless you want a gummed-up carb.
Thanks for the idea on the washer fluid jug full of gas, I had never thought of that. Those jugs, and empty vinegar jugs, are great for storing kerosene for oil lamps and lanterns too fwiw
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As I said earlier have IFAK and cell phone when using these saws(true with all potentially dangerous environments).I also use the kevlar chaps along with eye/ear protection.
You have no way to get the ethanol free gas use PRI gas stabilizer.1 ounce will treat 16 gallons of gas.,this stuff will keep gas fresh for years and also many times restore old gas.
A friend had a carb model Ranger parked for 3 years, bad gas,needless to say would not fire up.I poured one gallon into the tank with PRI/jumped up and down on rear bumper(am sure looked like a idiot!)for a good 20 minutes mixing said fuel up,put a tiny shot of fresh gas down the carbs throat and fired it up,did a break job on truck/oil change/ ect,.put on plates and ran 100 miles on old gas to prove a point,it worked!
Wow. That’s pretty impressive. That reminds me. I cannot stand people who leave vehicles with anything but a full tank and then wonder why it’s junked cause they are too lazy to swap a battery or swap out an entire carburetor. To hell with cleaning carbs. Just swap the whole thing out. You’ll save yourself A LOT of headache.
Johnny,if you can get it to run at all(you pulled battery/stored in home not on concrete!/occasional trickle charge,right?!)then remove air cleaner and slowly feed half a can of Seafoam down it’s throat almost killing engine,then kill engine by pouring other half of can down quickly,let sit 20 minutes or so,start and see a huge cloud of greenish smoke poring out your exhaust for 5 minutes or so,will probably then run just fine,great stuff and will make Greta smile when she see’s the smoke from Sweden!
A side note on the PRI,after jumping on bumper like a maniac did wait 2 hours to let the stuff do it’s magic on bad gas.
I will rebuild carbs(wrenching is one of me hobbies),one time a royal pain as had a par of scooter carbs broken down carefully on kitchen table for cleaning/rebuilds(Triumph)and stepped out for a smoke.I came back in and found most of small parts scattered around the kitchen by Warchild(me 8lb. Siamese)and him battering parts thru the living room hardwood floors!My vocal response had him in hiding the rest of the day,sigh………..
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