AR-15 Targets, Trajectory, and Testing: Known Distance Knowledge

At AP, we believe in good comms, clean weapons, and a perfectly zeroed rifle.
Now that you have the basic necessities for cleaning weapons. “Weapons Cleaning Crash Course w/ Items Index” Let’s get you zeroed like a real shooter, and throw you some “quick & dirty” lessons on reading wind, trajectory theory(On flat ground…), and some known distance skills.
Let’s get you guys squared away with some techniques for the AR pattern rifle and Mil-Spec M855 and M193 ammo. Since ya’ll bought every single mil-spec bullet in the country (I’m so proud brothers) I would say it’s time you learn some proper lessons on zeroing the AR platform with mil-spec ammo. This is a weapons system, and it works when you follow the rules. ALL the rules, with a few exceptions.

Do you have a manual? First, Let’s get some technical data on the table…

https://eagledef.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/fm.pdf

This one below has some spicy formulas in short form. But the above is in HD.

http://combatindex.com/store/field_man/Sample/FM_3-22_9.pdf

Amazon link for manuals

How about some zero targets?  Second, print a couple of these out…
http://www.printfreetargets.com/target/1/m4-carbine-25-meter-zeroing-target.html
This is the M4 25/300 meter zero target. It works for any weapon, like the AK, but was designed for the M4. I’m gonna clone this article for the AK later this week. Your AK is more like 25/200 meters; That’s a TWO HUNDRED, not a THREE HUNDRED, meter zero.

Let’s get started. This is A LOT, and there is more in the manuals.

If you have a 20 inch AR, your zero isn’t 25/300 meters. It’s 25/350 meters. This is true for 18 inch rifles or 14.5 pinned and welded; It’s basically a 20 inch M16 or 16 inch respectively.

It’s important to remember, your commercial weapon is almost certainly more accurate than the Military M4/M16. It’s probably a 1 MOA gun, even the $600 cheap AR’s are 1 MOA in my experience. Nice.

But the mil-spec ammo doesn’t change; It’s a 3-4 MOA cartridge. So you have a 3-4 MOA gun.

So your gun is 3-4 MOA. Not a big deal. I cover this later in the article. Hint=Fire a few more rounds… that’ll compensate for the spread. If you are lucky, your weapon can fire mil-spec at 2ish MOA. That’s rare, but it happens. Usually with something like match grade barrels & “Wylde” chambers but not always. Don’t sell those guns. They are worth extra.

Let’s take a look at my favorite zero target.


This target, when placed at 25 meters exactly from your barrel, will replicate the size of an average man standing at 300 meters. The group you fire at 25 meters represents the spread you will have at 300 meters, assuming no wind. These targets are priceless pieces of paper.

Target Printer Go Brrrrr….

The wind can blow the 5.56 round around quite a bit.

Observe the graph below.

Table 7-10. Calculated adjusted aiming point based on wind speed (full value).

And the next one.

You’l notice that the wind is predictable in it’s effect.

Figure 7-40. Windage effects of a 10-mph crosswind.

This is an overhead view (Above)

The cartridge listed is M193; M855 requires less, About 10% less if I remember correctly.

It’s possible to fire one ragged, cloverleaf hole at 25 meters with most M4 style rifles, but this takes lots of dry fire practice in the prone to build muscle, trigger pull/release discipline, and breathing technique. An acceptable group should be inside of a dime. Practice, Practice, Practice.

Be careful in your shooting position. Try to be conscience of your weapons vertical and horizontal axis.

Observe below

This effect is hard to notice at 25 meters. At 300 meters and beyond, the effect is obvious. This effect occurs with Ironsights, Scopes, and Red Dots.

When wrapping around corners in an urban environment, or trees, you want to keep your weapon vertical; Or compensate for the “cant” of the weapon. Vertical is best. Compensating requires thinking. The Eotech has hash marks to annotate X&Y axis. So you can square, plumb, and level up when aiming at a building, door, car, or person. The Eotech is a great optic. Too easy. The 50/200 zero is similar in theory to the 25/300 zero. The choice is yours. I prefer the 25/300; More on why later.

An Eotech Reticle Below. Note the 7 yard hold for CQB hostage shots.

 

Pretty neat. The Eotech is a fine optic. I own several of them. Don’t forget to clean your barrel and weapon before zeroing. Your groups open up, or shift, with a dirty barrel. It should be nice, bright, and shiny. Let’s get your weapon ready to zero.

Remember to set your Rear Iron Sight to the 300 marker. Or the white line just past the “300” on the M16 Rear Sight. Make sure your rear sight is properly mounted and torqued. Mounted the same for any optic. Rears sights are mounted on the last top rail notch. Use blue locktite if you feel inclined. These weapons get beat up in the field. This is covered in much more detail in the manuals. Those manuals are great.

It’s a weapon system.

I like to hold my iron sights on the bottom of the target, at the “belt buckle”, for a solid, consistent and clean hold. Just on the edge of the white and black. After a 5 round group, I make my adjustment clicks, and then switch to the “head” when the “belt buckle” portion of the target is shot out.

Switch your point of aim to the white cross, “+” where the jawline or mouth would be on the “head”. Zero a nice group so that your group lands just below the head’s top white cross, “+”, where the eyebrows would be on the “head”. This is typically 2 clicks of adjustment “Up” from your point of aim. Two clicks is perfect, no more clicks for now. You should zero your group so it “Lollipops” a nice group on the top of your front sight post.

Let’s test this zero. Observe the little circles on the perimeter of the target’s field.


Those circles on the outside of your zero target annotate adjustment direction for the uninitiated. There are eight total. Two in each corner. Ignore the directions in those circles if you have a commercial rear sight, that’s for military spec rear sights only. Specifically, the M4 rear sight.
Put those on top of the front sight like a lollipop. Fire one good shot at all 4 of them on one half of the target. Focus on your very best. You have 4 chances.

Give it your very best. Take your time. This is where it really counts.

Practice centering this small target on your front sight post. This is important for long range engagements. This is where you really make the magic happen.

Did you hit consistently in one direction? High? Low? Left? Right? Adjust 1 click… and only one click; Even if you think it needs two. Mark impacts, or shift to the other side. Test again. One click only to adjust. Color in the circles with a Black Sharpie to darken for clarity before placing your targets downrange. “Shoot ‘N See” Dots work too, if they are smaller than the front sight post. Clean your bore between groups if you can.
These can be hard to see for some folks. You can, and will, bullseye these little circles with a clean bore rifle. Cleaning your bore between groups isn’t crazy. You should consider using a fresh, clean bore snake to polish up your bore, or run dry patches down the barrel in the direction of the bullets. When you start dropping rounds in, or on, these little circles, and you don’t see your weapon favoring left, right, up, or down after testing all 4 twice; You have a perfectly zeroed weapon.

Remember, 3 or 4 of 4 shots on those little circles will favor one direction assuming your weapon IS NOT perfectly zeroed. If you cannot “read” the shots fired, and which direction your weapon favors, you have 3 possible problems or answers. This can require some testing. But I assure you, once it’s done, it’s done, unless there is a radical seasonal shift in temperature. Like high summer to dead winter.

The possible problems or answers are…

1) Poor Fundamentals of Marksmanship, or, you have a thermal shift in your barrel. 
2) Your barrel is dirty and you forgot to run a snake or a few dry patches through it.
3) That is the maximum accuracy of the weapon and/or ammo. AKA the “Mechanical Accuracy”

Testing multiple guns, if you own them, using this process will reveal which one is the best ammo to weapon match. Use that one in case of emergency. Take your time; This isn’t a race.

This is a scientific process.

Repeat until you are satisfied. This works very well. Trust me.

Next, let’s go over some range estimation techniques. Since your rifle is perfectly zeroed.

From the link below.

http://www.ar15-m16.com/FM3-22.9marksmanshipmanual/c07.htm#fig7_39

Range Estimation Training. The [Shooter] can use several different methods to determine range to the target to include the 100 meter “unit-of-measure” method, range card method, front sight post method, appearance of objects method, and the combination method.

A)   100-Meter Unit-of-Measure Method: To use this method, the [Shooter] must be able to visualize a distance of 100 meters on the ground. For ranges up to 500 meters, the [Shooter] determines the number of 100-meter increments between the two objects he wishes to measure. Beyond 500 meters, he must select a point halfway to the object and determine the number of 100-meter increments to the halfway point, then double it to find the range to the object.

B)   Range Card Method: The [Shooter] can also use a range card to quickly determine ranges throughout the target area. Once a target is detected, the [Shooter] determines where it is located on the card and then reads the proper range to the target.

C)   Front Sight Post Method: Another method to estimate range is by using the front sight post as a scale. Generally, if a man-sized target is 1/2 the width of the front sight post, then he is approximately 300 meters away. If the target is 1/4 the width of the front sight post, then the target is approximately 600 meters away. This method can be used for a quick estimation and engagement.

D)   Appearance of Objects Method: This method is a means of determining range based on the size and visible characteristics of an object. To use this method with any degree of accuracy, the [Shooter] must be familiar with the appearance and visible detail of an object at various ranges. However, some common guidelines can be used in relation to a human target to determine range.

  • At 200 meters a human target is clear and details can be seen.
  • At 300 meters the target is still clear, but no details can be seen.
  • At 400 meters the target’s outline is clear; however, the target itself is blurry.
  • At 500 meters the body tapers and the head disappears.
  • At 600 meters the body resembles a wedge shape.

Good stuff… I prefer the Front Sight Post Method or the 2 MOA Red Dot Method I cover later.

Your rifle isn’t a hammer drill or a chainsaw, You don’t need to have a death grip on it. Excessive pressure on some “sweet spots” of certain rifles will affect the zero. Avoid smoking, chewing, dipping, chewing gum, or caffeine. This causes micro spasms in your muscles and accelerates your heart rate. Plus, it gives you mild anxiety. If you must, keep these products to a minimum.

Let’s talk about your sights. This is covered in more detail in the FM’s and TM’s.

All U.S. Military M4/M16 sights are marked with a serial, or a key, that tells you which Irons or ACOGs you have. If your iron sight says “6M” or “600M” as the last number that’s an M4 rear sight for 600 meter “Area Target” use. Fire 4-5 rounds, and you will hit your target at 600 meters; 3-4 MOA groups @ 100 meters x 6(of 600) is 3 or 4×6=18 inch or 24 inch spread at 600 meters. If your rear sight assembly says “8”, or 800, you have an M16 rear sight, or carry handle, for a 20 inch barrel. Make sure you don’t have these mixed up. This is a common mistake. Some people will say “These are more preciseWRONG! They are designed for the 20 inch barrel with Military Ammo. It’ll mess you up at longer ranges. 16 inch M4 carry handles exist as well. There are also rear sights for the M193 and the M855 cartridge. These are common mistakes. At least one of you has the wrong rear sight/ACOG.

The adjustment values for military rear sights and front sights are listed in the manuals linked above. Technically, this isn’t required, but it’s a good idea if you have the time. Your weapon should be mechanically capable of shooting about a 6-8 inch (+/-) group at 200 meters. Confirm Iron Sights at 300 or 350 meters. Most counties have 200 meter public shooting ranges. The 200 meter setting works too. Check your settings on the rear sight. You are going to have to fire 10 rounds to find the “center” of your group and shift the zero based on that point of impact relative to the point of aim.  Not required, but is a good idea. Have faith in your equipment, it works.
When you zero your M4 style weapon, using standard Mil-Spec ammo, and a 25/300 target, you have two zeroes on one optic. One zero for 25 meters and the same hold for 300 meters. The “Hold” is the same. One groups on a dime, and the other shoots about an 9-12 inch group (3-4 MOA x 3(of 300 meters) is 9-12 MOA) Plus or minus a couple inches depending on the barrel and ammo spec’s. It’s 100% gonna be in that “Cone Zone” however. You can make some pretty incredible shots with an M4/M16 style AR weapon; It’s a great weapon.

 Your “cone of fire” example. Any round can hit anywhere in the “Cone”. Totally Random.

Know your “Cone of Fire”, AKA, the “Cone Zone”


Some visuals for Trajectory. M855 “Green Tip” (Fire 4-5 times) Note the 25 meter and 300/350 meter X-axis values.
Figure 2-43. M855 drop during 25-meter zeroing (M16A2 at 8/3+1; M4 at 6/3).
M855 compared to M193. It’s basically the same. Plus or minus a few inches.

Don’t worry about 500-800 meters max range. Zero your weapon properly, and it’ll work. Adjust your rear sight, and fire 10 rounds at 500-800. Check and double check your wind.

Next topic.

“But Johnny, I have a Random Brand(TM) duplex reticle scope…?”

What’s the difference? Nothing! 25/300(or 25/350) meter zero!

Let’s talk about your Random Brand(TM) Scope

The bullet trajectory doesn’t change. You can use the zero target placed at 25 meters to observe your reticle size relative to your target. Record this data on a separate printed zero target. Keep for reference. Duplex Reticles are quite useful. Lots of measuring is possible. Get creative. Check your values based on magnification. I’d use the highest setting and the lowest. And remember to keep it there. Record one set of data on one side, and one on the other. Get creative, stay consistent. Be scientific. This is possible. I have done it before on my duplex scopes. You can be VERY effective with a duplex scope. Have faith in your equipment.

Let’s talk about ACOGs. Because there are probably 50 different ACOGs in the wild.

ACOG makes several different BDC’s for various barrel lengths and cartridges. You should call ACOG and check your scope’s specs; Or use their web chat technical help desk. They make a carry handle mount specific ACOG with a BDC to account for the higher mounting offset. There are too many models to list, so I suggest you use their webpage and technical help desk. You cannot just slap any ACOG on any barrel length and use any cartridge. They have specific flavors for different mounting points, barrel lengths, and cartridges. If you zero your ACOG, I suggest using a 100 meter zero on the 100 meter marker, wherever that may be depending on your reticle style. In a pinch, you can use a 25/300 target. But make sure your use the 300 meter marker on your ACOG’s BDC at 25 meters. Aim small. If you have an ACOG with a different cartridge, zeroing for medium range, or half way on the BDC, is the best “quick fix”. ACOGS are worth every penny.
The Primary Arm’s scopes, with ACSS, have a huge following. Never used one. Same Principle.
Confirm at 100 when you can if using mil spec ammo; Usually they require some adjustment. Remember, it’s a 3-4 MOA group @ 100. I recommend firing ten rounds at 100 meters and 200 meters for confirmation. You’ll shoot a baseball, or softball, sized group at 100 and inside the flat part of a paper plate at 200 meters with mil spec ammo. You have to fire this many rounds at longer ranges because the “Group” can be rather large, and hard to read if you don’t fire enough cartridges. Mark your impacts. I recommend using “shoot and see” targets with a spotting scope, or man size steel. Measure the distance to the target from the center of the group and adjust based on the value listed for the adjustments on the optic. Use a compass(from middle school to draw circles to find your center) Fire again for confirmation.

Let’s talk about your red dot sight. AKA the RDS. My personal favorite.

There are a lot of myths about red dots. The biggest myth is that they are strictly short range optics. This isn’t true. The red dot can effectively engage targets to medium ranges, and even long range if you have some practice. Your visual acuity, knowledge of your target, wind reading, and your rifle is your only true limit; Assuming, of course, you have good fundamentals for marksmanship. Combining your red dot with a proper set of iron sights is also a cheap effective alternative. The Cowitness RDS/Iron sight combination has killed many men in combat. Your Red Dot Sight is pretty forgiving at 300 meters; And wild enough, the circle of the 2 MOA red dot is about, but not quite, the same size as your 300 meter group. Your rounds are going to hit somewhere in that circle, or just on the edge/outside of the “corona” of the red dot at 300 meters with a 16 inch barrel; Or 350 meters with a 20 inch.
The 2MOA dot is about 4 inches at 200 meters. If you check the graph chart above for the holds, you’ll notice it’s about 5,10, and 5 inches high at 150ish, 200ish, and 250ish respectively. Your dot is about 4 inches at these distances(about). Hold on your target, check the hold, adjust, and fire. Your dot is about the size of a baseball at 150 meters, and a soft ball at 250, and scales relative to the target based on the distance. Stack those red dots like a snowman, remembering your hold on the belt buckle. If you don’t know the distance, or are firing in a hurry, start low and fire 10 rounds, stacking your dots with each shot consecutively. You’ll hit your target. A LOT.

It should look like the example below. But stacked like a snowman.

. Bang-Bang

. Bang-Bang

. Bang-Bang

. Bang-Bang

. Bang-Bang

Understand? That’s a 20-25 inch vertical spread at 200 meters. You should at least hit the target 4-5 times; Likely all 10 times. If the target is laying in the prone at 200 meters, hold two dots low, and work your way up. This works for longer ranges like 400 and 500 meters. Because 3-4 MOA; Right? Which is a 16-20 inch spread at 400-500 meters. Remember your “Cone of Fire”. With an 8 or 10 inch dot at those distances respectively. Work it out. This trick works. Hold on the belly, start shooting, and stacking snowman red dots. I bet you get 5 hits out of 10 rounds. Stack and shoot those snowmen.

Red Dot Sight Measurement Method.

Your 2 MOA dot is…

2 inches at 100 meters, AKA, The size of someone’s eyeball at that distance.
4 inches at 200 meters, AKA, The size of someone’s fist or palm/rifle magazine/Goatee zone.
6 inches at 300 meters, AKA,  Inside of the face.(Test this on the 25/300 meter zero target…)
8 inches at 400 meters, AKA, On their face/ the size of their head or slightly larger.
10 inches at 500 meters, AKA, Looks like they are holding a basketball.
Remembering your “Cone of Fire” measure twice, work the problem, and aim for “center mass” with corrections and compensations for wind, distance, or angle and direction of travel(Check Manual for graphs on angles of engagement and moving targets; That’s expert mode)

Let’s zero the red dot

When using the dot in a Red Dot Sight to zero, you want to hold the bottom of the red dot’s “circle” on the bottom of the zero target. Right on that nice crispy line. Your 2MOA dot should be on the lowest visible setting(plus one click), to prevent confusion with the ‘Corona” or “Crown” that washes out your crispy red dot. Once you use the bottom of the target for zero, hold the top of the red dot’s circle on the inside of the top of the head. Cradle the curve of the dot with the curve of the head. Fire another group to confirm zero. Take your time, relax, don’t rush. Give it a click or two if you need to. Zero dead on with the dot.

Run a few dry, clean patches through your barrel down and out the same direction of the bullet. Same for a sharp, clean bore snake. Do this between groups. 

Test your zero on the circles on the outside edge of the target. Just like the iron sight zero process earlier. Shoot 4 of them on one side of the target with one round each. If you favor slightly high, low, left, or right; Adjust your sight 1 click. Do not adjust if you cannot notice a difference. You need to breath, relax, and take your time. Repeat as needed. Mark your shots, and get a good, solid perfect zero. Remember to “cradle” your red dot with the top, or bottom, of the circles for consistency.

Remember this, for every little bit that your zero is off, it is drastically off at longer distances. Making your weapon ineffective at longer ranges very, very quickly. This matters in the real world because people hide, and present very, very little of their body. Usually just a part of their hand and half their face. This is a very, very small target to hit beyond 200 meters. If your zero is off, you will die trying. This is why I say you should fire 5, or 10 rounds; To suppress, and, shoot your target.

1/4 inch at 25 meters can be off as much as +/-8 inches off at 300 meters.

Best of luck to you…

Have fun shooting. Be safe. Teach your friends. Share this article. Wear your PPE. This shouldn’t take too many rounds. Maybe 50 or 60 rounds per gun. Despite the high cost of ammo these days, $50-$60 respectively at $1 per round, is not a terrible price to pay. It is still possible to go to the range, have fun, and be extremely productive with your time and dime. I have shifted from ready up drills and smacking steel to putting a very, very serious zeroes on my weapons. And attempting tricks like cutting clothes lines at 200 meters. You can imagine why cutting wires with a rifle is a good skill to have.

Thanks for reading. Check your zero.

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About the Author: Johnny Paratrooper

Born and Raised in Baltimore City, Maryland. History Degree. 8 Years Airborne Infantry and Scouts Platoon. Iraq Veteran. 4-5 Years as a doorman, bar back, and bouncer in Baltimore. Worked in Construction, Heavy Equipment Demolition, Corporate Security, Sales, Forest Service contractor, and the Hospitality Industry. Raised Catholic. Hobbies are race cars and sport bikes. Side projects are HAM radio credentials and long range shooting. MY EMAIL IS JOHNNYPARATROOPER@TUTANOTA.COM. Founder of Green Dragon Academy https://www.patreon.com/GreenDragonAcademy

51 Comments

  1. Anonymous February 8, 2021 at 04:25

    5

  2. Matt Bracken February 8, 2021 at 08:04

    Outstanding AmPart contribution to Team Freedom! Salute!

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 08:40

      Thank You Sir. I typed “Zero” into the search bar and didn’t find anything…
      Felt like time.

      • Matt Bracken February 8, 2021 at 09:34

        I especially appreciated how you updated the old GI iron sight info for various optics and red dot sights, and how it all matters when you are trying to hit a narrow target at 300 or so yards, that is, a shooter behind cover. Getting the most out of your non-premium ammo (what we will be using) is critical. If a guy or guys are peppering you from 300 yards, and all you can hit is half of his face and part of an arm, those shots had better count. And to be sure, “stacking the balls” is a good insight. Lots of practical real world knowledge in your piece, way beyond just “how to zero your rifle,” but WHY, and how it all relates to making hits at distance.
        Most AR and AK shooters today just blast away at steel at 50 or 100 or maybe 200 yards, and if they hear it ring, they call it good. It’s NOT good because in the real world, shooters are not going to stand up making a nice still frontal target. They are going to move from cover to cover while giving you very little to shoot at. (This is why, with my 63 year old eyes, I like my 3X Burris optics. I can still do the close stuff, but it’s an enormous help at getting clear resolution out past 200.)

        • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 09:47

          When your weapon/ammo shoots a 20 inch circle at 500 yards, you are gonna want to make sure it’s zeroed correctly.
          I haven’t used the Burris or Primary Arms scopes yet. I have heard they are worth the investment. Apparently a lot of these new fix power scopes put the ACOG to shame in many aspects. Like field of view and glass clarity.

          • Coyyote February 8, 2021 at 12:02

            Am a big fan of the Primary Arms Gen lll 3X Prismatic. 3X as my older eyes need a bit of help and living on a ranch engagements are usually far rather than close. That said, I have done some house/barn clearing drills and do not feel the 3X compromises CQB engagements. Prismatic for a couple of reasons. Stigmatism of the eyes blurs the edges of a red dot but not the prismatic. Also if your electronics goes down from not changing the battery, impact or EMP the etched reticle on the prismatic scope still works (as do co-witnessed irons – however with the etched reticle I can still use the 3X easily. The ACSS reticle also allows ranging of the target, holds and leads, so very versatile. Lastly, price is more forgiving than an ACOG.
            Great article, will look forward to your AK version (have a Primary Arms 3X on that too)

          • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 12:05

            Thanks brother. The AK review will be a clone of the AR review. But include adjustments for the 7.62×39 and 5.45×39 cartridge.

          • Patriotman February 8, 2021 at 12:59

            I second the 3x prism. My favorite optic of all time.

          • SemperFi, 0321 February 8, 2021 at 20:21

            Another excellent writeup JP.
            I keep a stack of 25m zero targets in my range box, they are just stupid simple for anyone to use, and yet I can’t tell you how many folks shrug them off when I offer some. I really don’t think most folks are worth a damn at sighting in weapons, it’s hope and spray for most. Been doing this for decades and trying to get someone to sit down at the shooting bench and aim small, miss small is something they don’t like to do. I think it’s also an ego issue for some, they don’t want to look bad in front of others so they forgo the sighting in and just blast away like they’re in Mogadishu. I’ve seen it too many times with hunting rifles also. Spent years trying to get friends to go shoot NRA Highpower, finally got 1 to go and he eventually went to Worland in ’05 with me. He still says it was the greatest learning experience of his life.(precision shooting with open sights out to 600m)
            I also give the Primary Arms 2.5x and 3x scopes a 10 thumbs up, best scope I’ve seen for fast and easy target acquisition, especially older eyes. I think I have a half dozen and can’t speak highly enough of them, and their price. Not all of us can afford over $1k per scope.

          • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 20:54

            Thanks. I’d love to shoot a match one day. Just haven’t had the time. When I get out of college I’ll have more time.

          • Georgiaboy61 February 8, 2021 at 22:02

            Re: “I haven’t used the Burris or Primary Arms scopes yet. I have heard they are worth the investment. Apparently a lot of these new fix power scopes put the ACOG to shame in many aspects. Like field of view and glass clarity.”
            A lot of the time, optics manufacturer claims that their products are “breakthroughs” or “paradigm changers” are just so much hot air and PR -but that’s not the case with the Primary Arms ACSS. Dmitri M., the mind behind the reticle, has really done his homework, in particular an in-depth study of why the best military and civilian shooters miss targets at long-range, namely poor range determination and wind. The ACSS contains features to mitigate both of these problems.
            The ACSS line of reticles are designed to make shooting from up-close out to 800 yards as “math free” as possible, and they succeed admirably in that quest. They are not precision target optics designed for bench-testing at 1000 yards or the like; if that’s what you are after, this product line isn’t the answer. Investigate one of their other lines.
            The ACSS has a center portion designed to make CQB and short/medium range engagements easy. The BDC portion of the optic does not begin until 300 yards (or meters, depending on your choice of optic and model). Initially, the ACSS was offered only for firearms chambered in 5.56/.223/.308 but soon, reticles based on 300AAC-BO and 7.62×39 were also developed. In being caliber-specific, the ACSS is similar to the ACOG, but where Primary Arms goes beyond Trijicon is that Dmitri and company have done a much more-through job of doping out different MVs, bullet weights/styles, and the effects of altitude on the zeroing in process. They also share the reticle subtension (drop value) data, unlike many other companies. Dmitri at one time even used to do “on call” zeroing work for individual customers with unorthodox or unusual loads. Fantastic service.
            The build-quality in their budget lines is very good for the money. If you happen to get a lemon, PA stand behind their products 100%. And their mid-market and premium lines compare favorably with the competition.
            The real crown jewel is the ACSS itself. No one else in the optics industry offers anything comparable, at any price point. Not Nightforce, U.S. Optics, Leupold, etc. Trijicon finally licensed a version of the reticle for their ACOG line since they had nothing to compete with it.

          • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 22:22

            Hey that’s pretty cool. It is possible to spend $600 and get an ACOG though.
            Hard to argue with those numbers. And the ACOG is seriously tough, usually with 1/3 MOA adjustments. Which is pretty tight.
            I put an ACOG on my POF-USA build and zeroed it ten years ago. It hasn’t moved an inch in 10 years.

  3. SOG February 8, 2021 at 09:33

    Very Well Done – Official Range Coach status!

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 09:43

      Thanks Brother! I was my platoon’s SDM in Baghdad, Armorer, and I ran the zero and qual courses for the M4 and M-249 for a few years after that. I have seen so many mistakes with optics and weapons it would make your head spin.

  4. RHT447 February 8, 2021 at 13:07

    Outstanding article. Very thorough, well thought out.
    I am currently running a Holosun HS512C–
    https://holosun.com/index/product/detail/id/126.html
    …co-witnessed with Troy BUIS.
    I got this model because the sight is completely enclosed. Reticle is very crisp and clean. Have shot it on the range, but not taken it in the field yet, so can’t comment on durability. The gold reticle option is for folks who suffer from color blindness. I am not color blind, so am running the standard red. There is cataract surgery in my near future. Will report back.
    Here is an excellent video by Travis Haley–
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFbpjNh4DBA

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 13:30

      Thank You.
      Cowitness sights allow you to put a perfect 500 meter zero on your Irons, confirmed at 500 meters. With a common 25/300 on the red dot.
      This is a good practice for 500 meter bounding overwatch. Or hammering an LPOP, Snipers’ Hide, or MG nest.

  5. Garand69 February 8, 2021 at 13:13

    More Gold Johnny!
    For the last several years I have been preaching and teaching the Military Marksmanship Manuals including FM 3-22 on a bi-monthly basis, for 2021, I will be doing so on a monthly basis here in the Peoples Republik of Illinois. It is a slow process, because I typically only have my shooters one day at a time due to my work schedule. BUT, every shoot they inch up the ladder another step, and those that attended regularly last year have either shot “expert” or are knocking on the door. All of those that have made it, have stepped up and now help me instruct others to make it to expert.
    Living in the suburbs of Chicago, I am grateful I have access to private property to train on, that gives us a max distance of 300yds. The majority of instruction is on the 25M range, and when everyone has it down pat we hit the known distance range and ring a 66% IPSC steel out to 300. Considering this is a civilian deal, the camaraderie that is built among the regular shooters is impressive, as is their seriousness on improving their skill-sets. This past Saturday, one of my more serious shooters made the hour drive to practice his 300 yard prone in 9 deg F weather on a foot or so of snow!
    I’ll be preaching and teaching the marksmanship gospel till the end, the seriousness of the situation demands it.
    Keep up the good work.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 13:27

      Thank you and excellent work teaching the new folks.
      One suggestion, Sell your 66% steel target and purchase full size steel.
      I understand the “Aim small, miss small” theory, but there is a lost opportunity to teach the course using a correctly sized optic to target ratio. It’s better, IMHO, to use a target that correlates to the common 2 MOA Red Dots, Irons, and Scopes.
      Including people who use the random brand scopes.

      • Garand69 February 14, 2021 at 08:01

        Thanks Johnny, The original purpose of the 66% was to simulate sight picture at 500ish yds, but your right, so I ordered a 100% IPSC for next weekends Winter FTX/Biathlon Rifleman Ruck. We will use the 100% for 100, 200, and 300yds, and then use 2 66% steels for the 4th stage at 300yds. Should be a ton of fun in the snow. Thanks again.

    • James February 8, 2021 at 21:31

      Garand,am glad to hear folks who have reached a good level are willing to help others get there,and in Illinois?!
      Will say it makes me feel a bit better about the country,best in your future training of new folks!(and thanks).

      • Garand69 February 14, 2021 at 08:03

        Thanks James, Illinois is certainly interesting to say the least, but we are trying.

    • Mark. February 8, 2021 at 23:23

      Sounds a bit like the Appleseed way of doing things?

      • Garand69 February 14, 2021 at 08:08

        In the sense of getting shooters that can do it, to help pass on the skills, yes it is. I have always liked the “Training Cadre” concept, and I think it helps build camaraderie. My shoots are a bit less PC than Fred’s current program, more of a “Hard Cider” than “Appleseed” LOL

        • NC Scout February 14, 2021 at 09:03

          Wanna write some pieces up on it? I think it’s a great concept and one I’d like to help support.

  6. Anonymous February 8, 2021 at 16:07

    4.5

  7. Salmon R. February 8, 2021 at 17:31

    Outstanding article. I’ve shot NRA High Power competition for years (Service Rifle Class, 600 Yds w/ Iron sights), and I can verify that all your info is 100% right on the money. Eager to see your AK info next.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 18:02

      Thanks.
      The AK article is on hold for now.
      I found a great resource, and frankly know almost nothing about the AK.

  8. James February 8, 2021 at 18:05

    Very nice info/write up,as always,knew some/learned though a lot more.That said,will need to really practice the “more”.
    On a side note,me printer a slight grinding grrrrrr and a load thunk as each page pushed out,yet,still runs,friend gave me a good backup years ago but will keep riding out this one,and then,when she finally quits will gut it and rebuild just for s&g’s.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 18:28

      Thank You.
      Practice, Practice, and Practice.

      • James February 8, 2021 at 21:24

        Looking forward to the 7.62 write up.
        A friend assembled one of those weird ak-15/ar-47 options as 7.62 ammo was still reasonably priced/bought a lot (OK,a lot more)along with upper and is really enjoying.While I get the hit at a 100 on steel(16×20) not a deal closer when sites first set at neutral and shot off shoulder at a 100 right out of box(after checking upper/bcg/running a patch thru)was very satisfying/adding Aimpoint at neutral and yet again same results,well,with tuning in should be great fun.His friend fired twice with same results buis and bought other upper right off the bat,he is still happy with that choice 100 rounds plus later.
        I really hope most got in before a buck a round (feel that tis likely)and thus can work on skills ect. with a not so heavy dollar hit.
        That said,would rather spend the dollars now and be better skilled then save them and be less skilled when it really matters.
        A quick check shows decent(expensive to me) 7.62×39 still at about .55 a round,just something to think about if needed.Hmmm….,maybe not that bad a price in the big picture.

  9. RHT447 February 8, 2021 at 18:44

    Here is some great history. The fundamentals never change. These training films were made using real actors. Enjoy.
    https://archive.org/details/Rifle_Marksmanship_with_M1_Rifle_Part_1

  10. Retired February 8, 2021 at 20:35

    I love articles like this.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 20:59

      One genre I won’t write is a “Hur Dur; Democrats are the real racists” piece.
      That has been beat into the dirt…

  11. Georgiaboy61 February 8, 2021 at 21:47

    Great article, paratrooper!
    For those interested, a modified sighting system for AR-pattern rifles and carbines exists, in fact two variations: The Santose Improved Battle-Sight Zero and the Revised Improved Battle-Sight Zero or RIBZ for short. The last time it got checked, the info was up at AR15.com, under the title “RIBZ – Revised Improved Battle-Sight Zero.”
    In brief, these systems allow the user to achieve a true 25, 50 or 100 yard zero while still keeping the full capability of the traditional 3/6 or 3/8 carry handle rear sight. The Santose system was invented by a Marine Colonel of that last name, and then a revised and improved version came afterwards. The instructions are self-explanatory for the most part, and the system works as advertised. The procedure, by the way, is fully-reversible for those who end up preferring the traditional sighting system of the rifle. You will need a non-standard taller than usual front sight post, however, so plan on making that purchase if necessary.
    The utility of this system lies in the fact that few civilians have access to a range of 300 meters or more. Many are limited to 25, 50 or 100 yard distances, and find themselves unable to sight in POA =POI at many of those ranges. The RIBZ system fully-preserves the utility of the 300-600 or 300-800m portion of the traditional sights, but adds usefulness at closer ranges.
    The Santose and RIBZ systems are both built around M193 Ball and M855/SS109 Ball, but may be applicable to other ammunition variants.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 21:50

      Thanks Brother!
      I’ll look into this. I usually zero all of my firearms at 25 meters. Except my 9mm pistols/PCCs and bolt guns. I subscribe to the “If It Ain’t Broke” method. Plus, If I need to borrow someone’s weapon, I’d like to be sure of myself.

      • Georgiaboy61 February 8, 2021 at 22:06

        As an 11B, I fully get it that you like a standardized routine or system for zeroing. If your primary go-to boom-stick is out of action, you want to be able to transition to the back-up secure in the knowledge that you get it where you need it to be. Just thought I’d throw the Santose/RIBZstuff out there for folks who might benefit from it.

        • Johnny Paratrooper February 8, 2021 at 22:17

          Admittedly, A 25, 50, and 100 meter zero would be useful for across a street, down a block, or across a parking lot or alley. It would possibly have some tactical use. I’m just so used to the 25/300 I would be forgoing years of training and instinct.

          • Georgiaboy61 February 8, 2021 at 23:51

            Re: “Admittedly, A 25, 50, and 100 meter zero would be useful for across a street, down a block, or across a parking lot or alley. It would possibly have some tactical use. I’m just so used to the 25/300 I would be forgoing years of training and instinct.”
            I get it. If what you are doing works for you, why monkey with it? I’ve used the standard Army-style 25/300 sighting system and it works just fine once you internalize the holdovers and hold-unders at various ranges inside 300m. Learning it that way eliminates the need to fiddle with your rear sight elevation wheel so much, which is always a good thing. It’s sort of like how WWI snipers used to dial in a 500-yard zero on their scope and then leave it alone, doing their corrections in the field using their hold-over or under as circumstances dictated. They had to do it that way since the scopes in those days were so lacking in repeatability and consistency of adjustment. Set it and forget it. Herbert McBride wrote about that in the book “A Rifleman Goes to War,” which is a memoir of his time in both the Canadian and U.S. Armies during that conflict.
            Colonel Santose recommended that the default setting on the sights be 50/200, whereas you can even do a 36-yard near zero with the RIBZ system,which is something like what the Marine Corps uses now, if memory serves…. well, on irons, since they too have gone to optical sights as standard equipment.

  12. Georgiaboy61 February 8, 2021 at 23:43

    Re: “Hey that’s pretty cool. It is possible to spend $600 and get an ACOG though.Hard to argue with those numbers. And the ACOG is seriously tough, usually with 1/3 MOA adjustments. Which is pretty tight.I put an ACOG on my POF-USA build and zeroed it ten years ago. It hasn’t moved an inch in 10 years.”
    Trijicon makes a great product, in particular the ACOG – which is why there are so many current and former mil.gov folks out there who speak highly of them. Some dudes even owe their necks,literally, to their ACOG or VCOG or whatever. That’s heavy-duty stuff, and no civilian weenie such as yours truly is going to state otherwise.
    However, there is another side to the Trijicon coin, namely that since the vast bulk of their business comes from gov. contracts with LE and military, they don’t devote a whole lot of time or effort taking care of the civilian market. I once owned a TA11H-G 3.5×35 in 5.56/.223, but sold it when PA came on so strong some years back.
    Mine had the wrong reticle installed in it, according not only to my experience and calculations, but others as well – including the aforementioned Dmitri at PA – and Trijicon basically said, “Gee, that’s too bad, but we can’t help you.” When I asked why they didn’t stand behind their products better, they basically told me to buzz off and that if I didn’t like my ACOG, to take the loss and sell it used. Which I did.
    I realize that my experiences may not be the same as others, but that’s what happened to me, and it is why I am not somewhat jaded where that company is concerned. In my view, Trijicon doesn’t care about civilian-side customers because that’s not where their bread is buttered. Pardon me, but if I drop in excess of a grand on a product new, and it doesn’t work as advertised, then I do not believe it is at all unreasonable to expect that the manufacturer/vendor would work to set things right.
    I did discover a great firm who helped me sort out what was happening, however, called “Military Warfighter.” They literally know Trijicon’s products better than the company does. Awesome people, whose service was everything Trijicon’s was not.
    My negative experience aside, I can see why people like ACOGs: They’re built like tanks, and for the most part they work. Just do your due diligence and make sure you get the right one, with the right reticle and features.
    Where did you see an actual ACOG for $600? I’ve never seen one for less than a grand. Is that a military discount through the PX system?

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 9, 2021 at 08:46

      Every now and then you can snipe a low priced, base model ACOG for a ridiculously low price. My fiends and I have acquired several this way. Including some M-68’s, 3x magnifiers, and other gear. Like an AN/PAS 4 that works perfectly. It’s out there. One man’s rent payment is another man’s dream scope.

  13. Mark Griffin February 9, 2021 at 00:44

    I look forward to seeing your article on the 7.62×39. Do you have recommended targets for the 7.62×51? My favorite; although not as maneuverable as the M4, is my Springfield SAR-48 (FN-FAL Bush Model).

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 9, 2021 at 08:48

      Zero weapons that use the M80 Ball at 25/250. If you have a shorter barrel, your actual point of aim may be 25/225 or so. We use 25/250 for out M1A’s with M80 ball, with a variety of scopes and stocks, and they seem to work just fine.

  14. Coyyote February 9, 2021 at 04:43

    Another thought on shooting at relatively small targets at “ long” distance is the improvement that comes with an after market trigger for the AR/M4 or AK platforms. The mil spec triggers are not the best for precision shots and were designed more for closer engagements. A good aftermarket trigger can be had for $100 or less.

  15. Boat Guy February 9, 2021 at 06:33

    Thanks once more, Brother!
    I’ve been doing some more teaching/training lately and the zero targets are always part of the deal. You, however have given me many more tools and topics to use. I think I can get Bride onto longer range targets using her EOTech now.
    How’s the home search going? We’re in the design phase for our home in the valley. Prices are high now but I’d still recommend you look, frankly part of that is wanting you for a neighbor!I
    I’ll look into Primary Arms based on the preceding comments. My eyes are still good but they are aging.
    Come west Brother! I hate to think of you trapped in the east.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 9, 2021 at 08:51

      There isn’t anything in the west for me. Colorado is gone, Arizona is run by commies, and Liz Cheney isn’t gonna get voted out of Wyoming. Montana is being conquered by California and New Yorkers; Who I hate. I wish I grew up in a small town in the west 20 years ago, I would probably have a wife and kids if I had, but those days are long gone. We just have to stand our ground and say no to the Globo-Homo-International cabal.

      • SemperFi, 0321 February 9, 2021 at 12:16

        I have an old Weaver scope brochure from the 70’s that shows how to sight in almost every popular hunting caliber at 25 yds. and then the bullet drop out at longer ranges. Most folks are clueless to start sighting in at 25 and then work your way out.
        How many have seen that guy at the range on his 2nd box of ammo and still not hitting paper at 100?

        • Johnny Paratrooper February 9, 2021 at 12:46

          Not recently, but 10 years ago yes. Quite common. Nowdays there are quite a few resources available. I have seen guys shoot paper plate sized groups at 25 yards. Usually very overweight men.

      • Boat Guy February 9, 2021 at 19:10

        betcha a beer Liz is gone in 22, if not recalled before.

        • Johnny Paratrooper February 9, 2021 at 19:40

          I bet you a bottle of Wyoming Whiskey that Wyoming loves their Globalist masters and it’s all an act. If not, she is just gonna be replaced with a new master.

  16. Badger52 February 9, 2021 at 13:16

    Valuable piece in terms of reminding folks of some stuff. For irons or dots I still prefer (personally) a 50/200 zero. (That’s 50yds./200m for a 5.56 load that is moving decently.) And yeah, you can shoot 2MOA with a 4MOA dot – it’s in your craft, not the sight.
    I won’t get into the optics debate other than to say I love my ACOG, it’s going nowhere, and I find some of the PA ACSS reticles actually a bit small in viewing. They make some good stuff though. Sometimes we don’t have the time we’d like for such a deliberate shot.
    For those who have a ‘pet’ load but are trying to discern which ACOG reticle, it has been my experience that Tech Support at Trijicon will answer those questions with a simple civil query even via email. I’ve received exact breakdowns of the BDC values for the TA-31F, TA-31D (M193 specific), M150 RCO (.mil’s M855 version), and the 3.5x TA-11 from them. Nice folks.
    Run the numbers and pick the one that does the best job of dropping in sync with your load. The simple matter of research may also yield a zero that is functionally good but not the traditional zero point. For instance, Mk.262 zero’d at 70/135 for my TA-31D is within a shirt button out to 200 and at that point “drops in” very close with the ACOG’s BDC.
    Get the best “aim-small-miss-small” mechanical zero you can. Then get off the bench.
    Good news you’ll likely get better. Bad news is that, then, you’re out of excuses.
    :)
    [Edited out bad words -Johnny Paratrooper]

  17. […] A wide variety of good AK information.  Here is the same site’s similar compilation for AR-style rifles. […]

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