Badlands Fieldcraft: 5 minute project: Simple improvements to the Suunto MC2
Read the original here. -NCS
Mention the word compass around me and I’ll most likely utter Suunto MC2. It’s almost involuntary. Not that there aren’t other good compasses, it’s just the one I’ve seen used extensively to teach non-land navigators how to navigate, and the one I’ve used the most as well.
In fact, I just taught 11 students in my recent fieldcraft course to navigate with 1 meter accuracy with them, in the dark no less.
As I’ve used this compass there are some ideas I’ve had on how to improve it, or at least use it better. A little 2 page instruction sheet or even YouTube video won’t teach you nearly what you can learn by actually going out and training, and that’s where I’ve learned the most.
I’ve had some experiences that made me scratch my head as I tried to understand them, but I stuck with it and figured these out. One of the major ones was that in some areas I would shoot an azimuth, only to get to the landmark, and shoot a back azimuth that ended up being significantly different.
I would run into this situation while building my azimuth courses, and my first instinct was to attribute the phenomenon to a magnetic anomaly in the soil. The first time I had this happen I was next to a big pile of rock, so it kind of made sense. The next time though, there was nothing around to blame it on. Guess the buck has to stop here after all.
What I realized was that every time I observed this phenomenon, I was shooting azimuths going up hill or down. But I was aiming my compass perfectly through the vee notch like the instructions state. And that was exactly what I was doing wrong.
By using the Vee notch while pointing up or down hill I wasn’t holding my compass level. This caused my compass needle to drift, giving me a different reading than it should have. Then when I’d get to the landmark and shoot a back azimuth, the phenomenon would switch since I was facing the opposite direction.
So long story short, I needed a compass that I could ensure I was holding level. Shooting an azimuth is no different than shooting a rifle really, consistency is still accuracy.
I searched around and couldn’t find anyone making one so I decided to try it myself.
I ordered some of these small levels, not exactly sure of how I was going to use them. I spent a bit of time fiddling around with different methods of mounting it and I think I’ve got a good one.
The lid on the compass is square and goes over the round bezel of the compass. This leaves open areas at the corners, and that’s right where I found I could put the level.
After checking to make sure my bubble level was accurate, I then put the level onto the baseplate and closed it inside the lid. Then I flipped the compass over and marked a hole that would be underneath the level. It didn’t have to be centered, since it’s just for epoxy to run out of. I thought this might lock the level to the baseplate better.
Hole viewed from top, it’s a 1/8” hole
So this works really well for going up hill where I can utilize the upper vee notch in the lid. But going down hill is another story. By the time I get the compass level, I’m aiming out into space and can’t utilize either vee notch on the compass.
The way I rectified this was to tie my dummy cord using a Lark’s head knot onto the compass base and use the S-biner on the other end hooked around my belt. I can quickly unhook the s-biner from my belt to hang free, and utilizing a Marline spike hitch and a hefty stick I can then make a plumb bob.
Now it’s just a matter of lining up the needle, leveling the compass, and steadying my plumb bob. Just use the string like you would a vee notch and sight onto a distant object down hill.
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Seems like you’re duplicating the Army’s M2 compass with its level and mirror, although I do like the improvised plumb bob
Same problem here in the Blue Ridge. Thinking it was iron ore (like the early surveyors if Va & NC state line experienced) or more likely, my being a dummy!
Couldn’t make the bubble level link connect (Safari). Judging by the penny comparison, I’m guessing 10mm D and about 1/2 that D in Ht to clear lid.
Definitely will complete these two modifications on my MC-2
Thanks NCS. Two extremely needed mods for terrain navigation.
I have a questions and comment. Did you level the compass before applying “level” to the mount spot for the bubble level? The compass itself could be off level a few degrees but the bubble level will find its own. If not mated level to level, the compass could be slightly off but the bubble level on.
Also, hanging that stick off of the center axis of the weight vector will not be plumb. It even appears that way in the pic. Plumb needs to be center of the applied weight to be accurate. If you look at a plumb bob the string attachment point is always in line with the plumb pointer. Or does “plumb” and “level” not need to be that accurate for this task?
If you want to check you stick plumb place it beside a real plumb bob for comparison. Thanks for the post!
R
Good points Rooster. I did check the level against a much nicer torpedo I have and I made sure the baseplate was level too. That picture of the plumb Bob is indeed crooked, the wind was fighting me and it’s kind of an awkward position to try and get a picture in. I wouldn’t use that plumb Bob technique for any farther than I’d have to, for instance 100 meters or less. I’ll keep your point in mind about centering the weight better next time, it surely can’t hurt anything, thanks for the input!
LIKE the Improvements, a meter accuracy is Excellent. That said the Nice thing about that paracord plum bob is you can place it over your freshly buried cache, shoot two or more azimuths record them on maybe the back of a “personal photo” of the area to start your search later. Don’t use your cell phone to make that photo. In fact Don’t carry that surveillance device with you when you do caches.
Otherwise that tree you’d ALWAYS remember may have fallen in a storm or brush grew up or your memory was incorrect.
Always tie your compass to your belt. Never your belt loop.
I appreciate the proper method demonstrated here.
Thanks Johnny, Good attention to detail there! I should have probably pointed that out in the article…
Great article. I’m going to have to give this a try!
Good tricks of the trade. I finally dialed in my land nav capabilities as a cherry jumper when I attended the 18th ABN Corp Recondo school. What I learned there was terrain association, and that transformed my technique from that point forward, day or night. So unless I need to depend on dead reckoning because of low visibility, I will typically only use my compass to orient my map and point myself in the right direction. That excludes using a resection to pinpoint my location, which is where your fix will really work well.
I’ve taught land nav to a lot of people, and it’s always nice to learn new techniques to help new learners to develop confidence in their compass. Although this is something I’d save for more advanced learners, as I tend to use the kiss method for the first timers.
I do share your desire for a Suunto with tritium, as you mentioned in one of the podcasts. The usgi compass is what still gets me through the night navigation.
That is some bad ass improvising/tuning gear up!
Many(I mean many)years ago took all the offered courses for free by the state(supported by taxes on fishing/hunting gear)that involved hunting both rifle/pistol and the bow course/the trapping course and a intro to compass/orienteering course.I have since done little with a compass(did get a Brunton arc 20 for free and have yet to get out with it.
My ? is what tis the best intro to orienteering for newbies book(will watch vids ect.but feel get more out of reading/re-reading.Folks feel the best is Orienteering For Dummies will not be insulted,just interested in best book that could come with me on journeys,thanks for any input.
The Green Beret’s Compass Book by Don Paul.
Thanks James! Definitely get The Green Beret’s Compass Course for sure, try to find a version from in the 90’s at least because Don Paul kept improving his methods with each new edition. Other than that I can’t really think of anything off the top of my head that is a “must have”. It really is a hands on technical skill. You don’t have to go hike all over the wilderness to practice though. You can go to the local park and practice shooting azimuths, getting your pace count, and doing Box drills. To do a box drill, pick a starting point and Mark it with a stick or something so you know where you started. Walk 100M at 0 degrees, use your pace count to figure out when you’ve hit 100M. Then make a 90 degree right or left turn and walk another 100M. Take another 90 in the same direction, go for 100M. Finally make a last turn and walk 100M, you should end up at your start point. This tests how accurate you are at pacing and also setting an azimuth on your compass as well as following it in a straight line. As you get better increase the distance of your box sides. You can also use your Pythagorean theorem and figure out the diagonal distances from corner to corner. Walk half ways from one corner to the other and you should be in the center of the box, take a 45 degree turn and walk that same distance and you should be at a different corner. It’s all geometry, just gotta go out and do it. Good luck!
Thanks Scout and Badlands for book and other info.When you both told me the same book went for it,here is a link to good copies used for about 5 bucks any one else interested:https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/the-green-berets-compass-course-the-new-way-to-stay-found-not-lost-anywhere_don-paul/426526/#edition=3766184&idiq=4639170 ,will get the book and start practicing.I do a lot of hiking anyhow so will just add to the experience and a bit of confidence down the road in hiking unknown areas.