Night Fighting with a Red Dot vs. Lights: Tips and Tricks
Red Dot Sights are about as new as they are old. They have been around for decades and first saw use during Vietnam, though I can’t find the source I read about raids on POW camps with special operators using Red Dot Sights. The results were incredible.
They were probably used even earlier for larger weapons; Like the aircraft gun systems that inspired the Eotech HWS units. With great success and rising popularity, the RDS and HWS became the standards. Which is why they are now everywhere.
No doubt, some are better than others, especially the battery life, size, and the weight of the optic but the principles remain consistent. Red Dots and Holographic Sights are easy to zero, easy to acquire, and easy to learn how to use. Especially compared to iron sights; Which can take some practice and are not very forgiving if you are in an unusual shooting position. Iron sights work great in the prone on a bag, or squared up with a target. But the RDS, or Red Dot Sight, and the HWS, or Holographic Weapon Sight are kings of speed shooting for a reason.
The recent proliferation of pistols with red dots has proved this time and time again in competition and in police use.
Should you learn to use iron sights? Of course. Especially if you have military spec iron sights for the correct ammo and barrel length. That is the only justification I will consider. You can make some great short, medium, and long distance shots with a proper iron sight and red dot combination. Obviously, a red dot doesn’t help you much past the intended distance zeroed, like a 25/300 meter zero on an M4 style rifle. But you can practice your holds at certain distances at home without firing a single live round. Simply observing the offset and making a mental picture of where you should hold based on the distance to target is important.
Very important. Because the less you think about where to hold, the faster you can return fire accurately and reliably. Certainly an LPVO, PRISM, Scope, or ACOG are superior for a multitude of reasons. But we all know you have a red dot mounted on something. Somewhere. And probably with a tactical light mounted in tandem too.
I do. My home defense rifle is ready for that exact scenario as well. Home invasion, Hostage, or Street Fighting.
Iron sights also do not “wash out” like a red dot and holographic image do under bright lights or when you are attacked by a tactical light. And neither do ACOGS, LPVO’s, or PRISMs as the reticles wire or etched glass.
Red dots are, most importantly, excellent night fighting optics. It’s probably their greatest strength, but as all things, this is also their great weakness as well.
For example, if you are shooting at a vehicle that is fleeing at night and the driver of the vehicle has his foot on the brake. The red light from the vehicle’s brakes combined with your red dot, which was very likely dimmed for night time use, will wash out the red dot and you are gonna lose your gunsight in the heat of the moment.
This isn’t a good thing to have happen, because you aren’t gonna find it…
Try that in reverse against the headlights? Good luck…
The same thing happens if you get hit with a tactical light. And this is much worse because you get the purple floating dot in your vision from the attack and this is caused by the rods and cones in your eye flipping around. Which can be uncomfortable, sometimes painful, and can(will) cause some confusion and disorientation and considering how close you are to the threat, you are going to have some serious problems VERY FAST.
By “serious problems” I mean you are gonna get shot in the face…
First man to hit the other guy with a tac light wins.
Don’t believe me?
Go to a “Lights out” indoor Airsoft range and you will be absolutely destroyed by junior high and high school kids with no formal combat training.
They will absolutely annihilate you and your “team”.
Why? They know how to use their tac lights and have practiced. And you, simply put, have not.
You’ll notice pretty quick that you are seriously outgunned and can’t seem to hit your target and stay on target. Panic sets in under the tac lights and you will flinch.
So what’s the solution? The front lens cover that came in the package with your RDS.
This allows you to run your weapon without fear of the sight being washed out during a tac light attack; Or any other light pollution.
Don’t believe me? Sit in the dark for 30 minutes, dial your RDS to the low setting, aim for the lamp on the desk across the room, have someone hit the switch for the lamp on the book shelf…
The RDS sight disappears right? Of course it does.
The same thing will happen if you get hit with head lights, a motion sensor light, a tac light, or you are running and gunning in an urban setting with different degrees of lumen. Even some environments are bright, shiny, and wildly brilliant to the naked eye. Too save your battery, assuming you didn’t chose the Aimpoint brand, you can use your front lens cover to keep the battery use to a minimum.
Imagine bubba hitting you with his 100,000,000 candle power spot light? Imagine being surrounded by Chinese soldiers with armored vehicles using spot lights? You are 100% going to need your front lens cover. If you don’t have it, you are useless as a night fighter. It’s that simple.
Now try the same thing with your front lens cover on.
That’s why you have and use your front lens cover. ALWAYS HAVE IT AVAILABLE!
Disclaimer
AP HIGHLY suggests you keep the tac lights off of your G-Rifle, or Guerrilla Rifle. You will accidentally turn the light on in the woods. But for that rifle I know you have in your house for home defense that is rocking the super bright tac light. You will lose the RDS during a proper engagement. And this isn’t safe or satisfactory in any way.
Put your damn front lens cover on and shoot with both eyes open. In places with bright sun or a highly bright and reflective background, like the desert or a modern city with lots of glass during high noon, you can, should, and will want to consider putting your optical lens cover on.
Again this will mitigate the need adjust your brightness depending on your terrain, angle of attack, and time of day.
This is also good practice to teach your brain how to collate two images. Which will train your eyes to handle using night vision better. And, thus, in turn, the muscles in your eyes can grow stronger with practice and training. Which helps with using binoculars, spotting scopes, and gun sights for long periods of time.
You do know that the muscles in your eyes get tired right? You gotta work them out.
Thanks for reading,
J.P.
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Sad to say, the Rhodies bought enough of these for the South African version of the FN rifle that all four Commandos of Rhodesian Light Infantry and ‘C’ Squadron SAS mostly carried. About 600 of them from some Belgian company bought through the Israelis. I’d see some of the SAS guys with them later… but they had way higher IQs than most of us knuckle heads in 1RLI had.
They didn’t go over very well with us. We turned them back into the armory, rather relying on three point perspective shooting with semi-auto double and triple tap shooting.
Our contacts were mostly all close range… up front and personal… usually within bad breath detection distance and no more than a hundred yards. This was 1977 and maybe our early models inherently sucked because they were first technology… but I’ve heard the newer units are superb.
That was hard earned foreign currency they wasted… but it was hard to improve on our kill rate… we did just peachy with three point shooting. Defeated those shytte heads until the Carter Admin and British gave it to that Commie puke mugarbage and his cronies.
It’s one of the items on my research and maybe purchase list.
I personally own 3 Eotechs and 3 Aimpoints and a mix of Vortex red-dot optics on various rifles and pistols. I have no trouble shooting at any reasonable distances. There is nothing wrong with iron sights. Especially a proper set of iron sights with the correct ammo. I have no interest in aftermarket iron sights and non-standard ammo. Waste of time and money in my opinion.
I suggest you pick up a quality Red Dot. If you own an M4 style rifle that has a standard front sight post and the proper M4 rear sight (Designated to 600 meters) the M-68 will perfectly co-witness as designed by the army. Including use with NVG monoculars like a PVS-14. And you will see my points expressed in true. I have never replaced the battery. Even operating in 134 degree heat/direct sunlight. Also, the M68 is NVG ready with the proper settings available, As are many of the other Aimpoint products.
Their Aimpoint hunting series, which is the standard Aimpoint guts inside of a non-standard sized tube, can be mounted to a bolt action rifle like any other scope. I have two bolt action rifles with red dots. I have no problem hitting anything I aim at out to 400-500 meters. Depending on the environmentals. I use a trick to aim where I place the edge of the red dot on the target relative to the trajectory/point of impact. A simple trigger squeeze hits the target.
The Eotech is nice because of the 2 MOA Circle/Dot combination reticle. There a bunch of tricks you can use to hit your target effectively. Similar to bracketing a target with mortars. It’s REALLY, REALLY effective.
The 2 MOA dot, which is the best for a rifle (6 MOA for pistol) can easily be used to measure your target. 2 MOA at 300 meters is 6 inches, which sits inside of the face of a silhouette. Ergo, you know the man (sized target…) is point blank.
Iron sights can cause strain on your eye muscles, especially if you are sitting in a static position for long periods of time covering a lane of fire(or you have aging eyes). A red dot does not suffer from this problem. If I recall correctly, The Rangers in Somalia used Red Dots on all their rifles, which was new for the Army Rangers at the time. The sight was recommended by Delta as a force multiplier. They used the “Aimpoint 2000”. A few hundred men killed thousands of enemy forces using mainly small arms. Though I don’t believe every single ranger had this optic.
The RDS/HWS is the king of weapon sights in my opinion.
The son Tay raiders used the Armson OEG sight on that mission. Benjamin Schemmers book The Raid discusses it
Thank You. I had a heck of a time trying to find any mention of this.
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Am looking for some clarification. Is the author suggesting a tinted lens cover to prevent washout? The image at the top of the article shows a black plastic cover and Im not picturing how that is a solution to the problem. I’m an iron sights guy with a couple of budget red dot & holo sights that have yet to see the range.
You cover the entire objective lens with the cover. You could, in theory, also use tape or another substitute.
Practice aiming with it closed and on. Your brain will do the rest. Amazing but it works.
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Regarding Weapon lights on the G Rifle, I think a good happy medium is to have a light detached from the rifle that can easily be added with minimal/no tools when needed. Unless hundreds of miles around you is the planet Endor, you have a strong possibility of going from rural/woods to urban, and may need to take a strategic objective inside a built up area. CQB is still applicable in small towns, so I’m not necessarily talking about a major concrete jungle. The Surefire X300U-A can be slid over a Picatinny rail, and locked into position without aid of tools, and there exist quick attach/detach weapon light mounts for the MLOK mounting system. I’d rather my guys have those in their packs and have them if the need arises than have to cross the LoD without them and try and make do.
True. Yeah, the funny thing about the woods is that it’s basically devoid of all sentient life. 95% of people live in cities or suburban areas within 20 miles of the highway or metropolitan area.. Which is where you will find headlights, motion sensor lights, spotlights, and flashlights. Even if you try to avoid this.
Streamlight Protac 1L-1AA. Takes a CR123, an AA battery, or in a pinch, it can also use an AAA. Its a small handheld, but can be ziptied or ranger-banded to a rifle. And its only $40 or so…..
Great Idea! You always have at least one battery!
However we ONLY and exclusively recommend this for your House Gun or your Truck Gun/Patrol rifle for Citizens/Farmers/Ranchers/Police.
All G-Rifles should skip the light. Those bell reflectors in the flash lights will reflect light and give away your position if the enemy is using white lights, red lights, or IR lights w/ NODs. It’s the same reasons we also recommend flash hiders over muzzles brakes or compensators.
Sure as shit my G rifle wont have a light on it come end of July. I promise….
Ha! Mine is gonna have 4 minimum. One on each rail.
Put a scope cover on the light too . Even touching the thing while rummaging in your pack can blind you and highlight you like those stage spotlights.
Good Idea. But I recommend testing this. Some of them can bleed light. Which is significant in the middle of the night when everyone has their natural Mk 1 Eyeballs adjusted correctly or they are using a proper set of NODs.
Also, during the winter, they stay on nice and tight, but in the heat the plastics can expand and don’t work nearly as well during more stable temperatures. If you accidentally leave your light on, the heat will expand the covers as well. Wrapping the light in a face/hand towel and placing it in your pack in a designated pocket with some chem lights is the best Idea.
Been doing this closed cover trick for many many years with an older US Optics SN4s LPVO (one of the first LPVO’s I think..) with a green circle-chevron reticle FFP. Johnny P is correct, this trick is very effective.
Since this scope is older the lit reticle is nowhere near daylight bright. Also, sometimes in the bush no matter what thickness etched reticle is you can loose it in the dark spots.
And what’s really cool about it is when you’re in say dense bush and there’s no way running your scope on 4x is helping you so you dial down to 1x and now your etched reticle in gone. With the closed cover trick I can now dial back up to 4x and have a big reticle and not be impeded by the over-magnification for the situation. And in dense bush with potential for enemy up close a bigger reticle can really help get you on target fast as I’m sure you all know.
Both eyes open for this is a must as Johnny Paratrooper states. Takes a little practice. The reticle takes on a real “floating in the air” quality.
Another very useful application for this trick with a scope is on a long range precision rifle where all you have is say 3.2x or so on the bottom end of the magnification. Now you don’t have to have an RMR hanging off the side of the rifle which can be a PITA.
Try it out with any lit reticle scope as well as red dots. You’d be surprised how well this adds another tool to your toolbox.
Thank You. And you are correct.
Thanks Brother. We (Bride and I) run EOTechs with SureFire 300’s on our “M4″s..The RDS have covers but we’d need to leave them up to run the irons. Younger family have Aimpoints (they live elsewhere) . Been intending to upgrade my sight to NVG-compatible and give mine to get another family member.
The white-light juju is a good point; we are trained to use them in our suburban setting. We will make it SOP to take the SureFires off the rails in the boonies.
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So, using this method will make my non nv compatible 3x prism scope, nv compatible, provided both are zeroed to the same point?
You would not be able to see through the optic if you were to mount your NVG to the rifle. But it will more likely work if you have your NOD mounted to your helmet or skull crushers. However, you would not have access to the zoom functionality. But the DOPE on the BDC will still work relatively well all things considered. I recommend testing this if you can.
I’ll flesh it out. Thanks.
this brings up an interesting question …
I understand you cannot say run an optic that’s not NV compatible on rifle in front of NV due to dot or reticle being too bright and it will burn the image into your tube, hence the very low night vision settings.
However … you can clearly run the NVD in front of the optic like NC Scout is doing with his ACOG. So in theory you should be able to run just about any optic BEHIND an NVD on your rifle. I’m suspecting the reticle might not need to be lit at all since the night vision is “lighting up” the image in front of the scope.
If anyone could clarify I’d appreciate it and I’m sure many others would find this useful info as well.
Not all optics line up correctly with the NOD. But, if it lines up, it should work. Assuming the glass isn’t too reflective or some other problem.
Yes, there’s often hight differences to work out if possible … which can sometimes be a pain in the ass to find just the right mount, if available at all.
Been using a head mounted Pvs 14 to look through a Vortex 3 prizm. Hundred yard steel standing is no problem if not awkward at first.
Regarding the Vietnam era “red dot” used in the Son Tay raid, it was an “Occluded Eye Gunsight” (OEG) by Normark called the Singlepoint…
Not the Armson USA OEG scope.
The Normark Singlepoint sight was also used by some RT members in MACV-SOG, as pictured here:
https://i.postimg.cc/FR07nB1P/MACV-Singlepoint.jpg
List of References regarding Normark Singlepoint:
https://books.google.com/books?id=kdgDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA44&hl=en#v=onepage&q&f=false (Popular Mechanics Sep. 1970)
https://books.google.com/books?id=pgAAAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA111#v=onepage&q&f=false (Popular Science Feb. 1971)
http://hansard.millbanksystems.com/lords/1971/feb/17/the-singlepoint-sight (Feb 1971 Parliament discussion)
Principles of How to Use Singlepoint (Normark Corporation)
The Raid (Benjamin F. Schemmer), Harper & Row, 1976
Commander JCS Joint Contingency Task Group Report on the Son Tay Prisoner of War Rescue Operation, Part 2 (Unclassified, Sanitized)
The Son Tay Raid: American POWs in Vietnam Were Not Forgotten (John Gargus), Texas A&M University Press, 2006
Thank you for this. I couldn’t find anything when I was searching the web. Probably because I was using the term “Red Dot”.